![]() |
|
|
The road to Doolin held
some interesting sites, including Doonagore Castle. |
![]() |
One of the families on the boat was western European (Slavic) and their 7-8 year old son spent the trip bouncing all over the boat and playing with his cool medieval action figures (he and Jakob would have gotten along famously).
A little bit of history… The Aran Islands are a group of three islands located at the mouth of Galway Bay, on the west coast of Ireland. The largest island is Inishmore, the middle and second-largest is Inishmaan, and the smallest and most eastern is Inisheer. Irish (Gaelic) is a spoken language on all three islands, and is the language used for the names of the islands and many of the island's villages and place names.The islands were first populated in larger numbers around the time of the Cromwellian conquest (kind of a religious purging when many fled the mainland of Ireland in the mid 17th century). They adapted themselves to the raw climatic conditions, developing a survival system of total self-sufficiency. Their methods included mixing layers of sand and seaweed on top of rocks to create fertile soil, a technique used to grow potatoes and other vegetables. The same seaweed method also provided grazing grass within stone-wall enclosures grass for cattle and sheep, which in turn provided wool and yarn to make handwoven trousers, skirts and jackets, handknitted sweaters, shawls, caps, and hide shoes. The islanders also constructed unique boats for fishing, building their thatched cottages from the materials available or trading with the mainland.
It is only very recently that the islands have had reliable electricity and communications. Many blame the decline of Irish speaking among young members of the island community on English-language television, available since the 1980s; furthermore, many younger islanders leave for the mainland when they come of age. Irish is spoken less by the younger generation, although a casual visit to the island will reveal people of all ages conversing fluently in the language.The island of Inis Mór ( meaning the big island) is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Ireland. Well known internationally, it is steeped in history and resembles an outdoor museum with over 50 different monuments of Christian, pre Christian and Celtic mythological heritage.
|
On our hike up, we passed a trio of local boys playing music (fiddle, flute, squeezebox). The boy in the middle sang (with an amazingly sweet voice) a song about going to America with his sweetheart.
|
After the fort, it was back into the trap. Mike swung by our B&B (Man of Aran) so we could drop off our luggage and then dropped us back in the little village near the boat docks.
John ducked into the Spar (Irish cross between a small grocery store and a mini-mart) and grabbed a couple of bottles of red wine for later before catching a cab back to our B&B.
Our cab driver, Padraig, is a musician and tour bus driver on the island. His mother was Irish and his father was from Zambia. He was born in Dublin, lived in Massachusetts for a while, met his wife on Inishmore in a pub where he was playing, married her, and moved to the island. Turns out that his wife’s grandmother was the female lead (the only female part) in the movie “The Man of Aran”. We made plans for him to pick us up in the morning for the ride back to the morning ferry back to Doolin.After dinner, some of us gathered in one of the sitting rooms and watched “The Man of Aran”. A docufiction filmed in 1934 with all local talent it is the quintessential silent black/white flick relying on the overacting and overly dramatic cinematography to convey emotions and plot…but they dubbed some dialog into it, although you needed subtitles to understand what they were saying since between the poor audio quality, the loud sound effects, and the thick Irish brogue. During the movie, there are some pretty harrowing scenes with high waves including one unplanned scene in which the woman falls and has to be pulled out of the surf by her hair (she didn’t know how to swim). Apparently that scared her enough that she never did watch the movie.
After the movie we turned in for the night and got
much needed sleep.
We, once again, had beautiful weather all day
today. It was so warm that all the island visitors were sunburned (including
John).